A good friend of mine, Elijah, and I had both been watching Iron Chef and happened to see the episode with Chris Constentino vs. Mario Batali. Constentino is a San Francisco-based chef and owner/executive chef of Incanto, and is known for using the "nasty" pig parts. Elijah's birthday was last week and Molly and I decided to take him to Incanto as a birthday present.
We arrived on time for our 6:45pm reservation and emerged into the warm foyer. We started with a glass of prosecco, marinated olives and the salumi platter. I won't lie, I'm not always the most adventurous eater of weird animal parts, and this platter was full of them. Everything was housemade and the platter included; mortadella, house-cured pork belly, head cheese, crispy pig skin/ear/snout salumi, a pate of big belly/shoulder and other parts w/whole grain mustard, pickled ramps, pickled organic baby carrots, pickled onions and heirloom radishes. I was a little overwhelmed when the plate was delivered and in front of me were thinly sliced weird pig parts. BUT, that was part of my excitement in dining at Incanto--- trying new things. The mortadella was delicious; smooth, mildly smokey and sweet. The cured pork belly was amazing and practically melted in my mouth. The pickled ramps (and all of the other pickled items) I could pretty much eat every day, delicious with a hint of clove/allspice. I tried each of the other salumi, but don't know if my tastebuds are sophisticated enough, or accustomed to the taste.
For our next round of appetizers we ordered heirloom peppers stuffed with fresh ricotta with pesto and baby arugula and a crudo of kampachi with pomogranate seeds and smoked salt. Both of these dishes were outstanding and I would eat them again and again. The peppers were delicious and ricotta was soft and frest. The bitter greens and the basil added nice compliments to the softness and sweetness of the peppers and ricotta. The wine we had with this course was perfect (I can't remember the name, but it had the word "kerner" in it), slightly sweet but not too sugary with a muscat-like nose. The crudo was delicious. There was a sauce which tasted like a pomogranate reduction/molasses and there were scattered pomogranate seeds scantly scattered over the plate. The smoked salt was spare in the best way--- not every bite was bombarded with the flavor, but the hint of it was a wonderful complex flavor with the sweetness of the sauce and the bitterness of the seeds.
For our entrees, I ordered papradelle with oxtail ragu and bitter greens (i can't remember which one). Molly ordered skate with sunchokes and chantrelle mushrooms. Elijah ordered the hare with farro polenta, dandilion greens w/ caramelized onions and grapes. Although I ordered the half portion, I found my dish to be incredible small and there wasn't enough of the good stuff. But, I had never eaten oxtail before and was interested in trying it. I don't feel like there was enough of the oxtail, but the bits I had I liked. Elijah's hare dish was delicious-- a large portion with big flavors. I had never had hare and really enjoyed it. It was cooked perfectly and was falling off the bone. The gamey-ness of the hare went well with the full flavor of the farro polenta. There was a heartiness in the farro that could stand up to the hare. A standard polenta would have been lost. The dandilion greens were incredible bitter, but the sweetness of the onions and especially grapes were a clean and refreshing break in the dish. I think Molly's skate was my favorite dish. Molly's only complaint was that it felt a little heavy on the butter, but all of the elements worked incredible well together. The sunchoke cubes and chantrelles made a mound in which the two pieces of fish laid over top. The skate was crispy on the outside, sweet and stringy on the inside and went extremely well with the earthiness of the sunchokes and chantrelles. The chantrelles were beautiful; plump and full of flavor. Sunchokes are something I'm not terribly familiar, but would like to start cooking with. They have the flavor of an artichoke and the texture more like a potato. Overall, a delicious dish.
For dessert we shared a dessert wine flight and a cheese plate with 3 cheeses, fruit & nut bread, stuffed date, and housemade cherry jam. This was the perfect way to finish the meal and the flight included the most delicious 10 yr. masala wine. Overall, the food was delicious, the quality impecible and the presentation elegant. I was least impressed with the service and thought our server left something to be desired. Had the service been better, this would have been a truly great meal. Its funny how much people take great service for granted, but in its absence you can really notice how much it takes away from a meal. It just seems like a shame when you're spending hundreds of dollars, not to feel like you're getting fair & attentive and service.
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